“Missoni is a language that has been spoken for 70 years,” mentioned Filippo Grazioli at a pre-fall appointment. “My obligation is to introduce new phrases, to widen its vocabulary.”
Simplify, edit, streamline—that is Grazioli’s new terminology, his glossary to replace the label’s lexicon. After drastically decreasing the chromatic spectrum to only a few colours (white, black, magenta, cyan and yellow), and narrowing silhouettes right down to lean, vertical strains, now he’s opening up the palette to extra Missonian variations, whereas including fluid choices to shapes and proportions.
Some gadgets he simply offered within the males’s fall assortment had been additionally proposed for pre-fall, just like the rainbow-colored mohair cardigans and the denim items made in an up to date textured model of the fiammato sample. He loosened up the amount of knits a bit, as in barely roomier jumpers, jackets and coats worn over his signature quick, tight-fitting and slender minidresses. The play on contrasting patterns and textures was extra accented: zig-zag, checks and fiammato, usually woven with lurex yarn to provide surfaces some shine, had been blown up in micro/macro renditions. The raschel and caperdoni materials (that are made solely in-house with particular textile machines) had been common into masculine high-waisted pants, soft-tailored overcoats worn with matching miniskirts or bodycon minidresses.
Grazioli additionally provided extra chromatic selection, including tones of lilac, rust, pastels, and vibrant pink to the fundamental palette of optic white and black. Stress-free into his function, he’s honing his method to the label: “I would like Missoni to be actual, timeless and ageless,” he mentioned. “I wish to see individuals on the street sporting it—I would like it to be truly wearable, not only a vogue fantasy.”